Thursday 1 OctoberService 19:00
Morrow & Rook
Fourteen seats around one oak counter. Eleven courses. Tonight, the tide decides.
Next release: 1 November, 09:00
Tonight begins
- Rock oyster, frozen buttermilk, dill
- Brown crab tart, pressed apple
- Hearth bread, cultured butter, kelp salt
The boats were in by 06:10. Tonight’s turbot came off the Marrow Bell.
3The counter
One oak counter, an open kitchen, one seating at seven.
The counter is a single length of oak, bent into a horseshoe around the stoves, so every seat looks straight into the kitchen. There is no dining room behind you and no second sitting: all fourteen guests sit down at 19:00 and are served together, course by course, by the cooks who cooked.
Allow three and a half hours. The pace is the kitchen’s, not a schedule’s.
The cooks
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Head cook
Ines Halloran
Breaks down every fish that comes through the door, and decides the menu by three o’clock.
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Hearth and sauces
Tomas Vire
Lights the hearth at noon and keeps it until the last plate. Nothing leaves the pass without his glaze.
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Pastry and the gardens
Maren Oduya
Bakes the bread at four and walks the rows at Saltcote every Monday, deciding what the vegetarian path will be.
Where tonight came from
Five suppliers, none further than the fell. Distances are by road or by water to our door.
- Marrow Bell 0.3 km Day boat · turbot, brill, cod
- The Ebb Lark 3 km Creel boat · langoustine, crab
- Hollin Shore 6 km Foragers and divers · sea herbs, kelp, scallops
- Saltcote Gardens 11 km Market garden · vegetables, fruit, herbs
- Grey Fell 24 km Dairy and flock · butter, curd, hogget
Map not to scale.
4The cellar
Two pairings, poured with the same care.
Our cellar is small and changes with the menu. Rather than a list, here is how we choose.
Poured tonight
- 01-02 Salt-marsh white Clos Ardenne, 2023
- 03-04 Skin-contact Grüner Weingut Halm, 2022
- 05 Old-vine Chenin Domaine Lusse, 2020
- 06-07 White Burgundy, village Maison Corvel, 2021
- 08 Cool-climate Syrah Brae Hollow, 2019
- 09-10 Late-harvest Riesling Weingut Halm, 2018
- 11 Fino, poured cold Bodega Arrel, solera
Cellar pairing, seven glasses. The garden pairing follows the same order.
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The glass follows the plate, never the reverse.
The menu is written first. Only then do we open what suits it, so nothing on the plate is bent to fit a bottle.
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Small growers, open at the counter.
Most of what we pour comes from family estates making a few thousand bottles. Each is opened in front of you and talked about only if you ask.
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A sober glass deserves the same thought.
The garden pairing is made here: ferments, shrubs and pressed juices from the same growers as the food. It is not an afterthought to the wine.
| Eleven coursesper guest, service included | £165 |
|---|---|
| With the cellar pairingseven glasses across the evening | £260 |
| With the garden pairingseven glasses, no alcohol | £225 |
5How booking works
Every seat for a month is released at once.
At 09:00 on the first of each month we release every seat for the month that follows. November went this morning; December opens on 1 November.
November at the counter
- Release, 09:00
- Service, 19:00
- Closed
- Release, 09:00
- Closed
- Closed
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Closed
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- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
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- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
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- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Service, 19:00
- Closed
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Release, 09:00 Gone by 12:10
From release to the counter
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1st, 09:00
Seats are released
Every evening of the following month opens at once, here and nowhere else. Most months are taken by noon.
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On booking
A £50 deposit per guest
It comes off your bill on the night. We take it so an empty seat is never a guessing game for the kitchen.
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Any time
The waitlist
If your evening is full, ask for the waitlist. When a seat comes back we offer it in the order requests arrived, by phone first and then by email.
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Up to 72 hours before
Cancel in full
Cancel or move your booking and the deposit is returned in full. Inside 72 hours it is returned only if we fill the seat from the waitlist.
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Before you arrive
Tell us what you eat
We need dietary notes when you book, not at the counter: the menu is cooked once, for fourteen people, from one afternoon’s produce.
What we can and cannot adapt
We can
- A full vegetarian path, every service.
- No pork, no red meat, no alcohol in the cooking.
- Gluten-free, apart from the bread course, with 72 hours’ notice.
- Dairy-free with 72 hours’ notice.
We honestly cannot
- A severe shellfish allergy. Crab and langoustine stocks go through the same small kitchen as everything else, and we cannot promise a safe plate.
- A vegan menu. Most of our sauces begin with butter and stock.
- Changes on the night.
6Request a seat
Ask for an evening.
Tell us when and how many, and anything we should know. Here is what happens after you send it.
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Within a day
A reply from the counter, by email, with your evening confirmed or the waitlist offered.
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Then
A deposit link. It holds your seats and comes off the bill on the night.
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The week before
Your evening’s card: the courses, the cellar pairing and when to arrive.